ORMUS FOR PLANTS

Ormus and Organic Gardening tips are a top priority in today’s market with the price of vegetables being the main factor, people are opting to grow their own.

One of the reasons for this is the extent to which toxic chemicals namely pesticides are being used and the residue build-up in the food on the supermarket shelves and a rise in autoimmune disease and cancer and the cost spiking, especially in 2022-2023.

Gylsophosphate kills weeds while millions of litres are pumped into the environment on commercial paddocks or by local councils.

There is much negative press associated with cancer and skin disease around this, and people think it is harmless with most having it at home in the gardening shed.

Hot water for small quantities of weeds or salt is a good alternative.

Salt can be purchased in large sacks[ not food grade] and is reasonably cheap in this form. A big handful per square yard works well and lasts longer than spray but does take a while for it to work.

The soil has been drained of all organic matter from being cultivated for centuries and has become depleted.

The majority of commercial crops are being grown using chemical fertilisers as it’s not financially viable to grow organically by spreading tons of manures or seaweed on large tracts of acreage. These chemicals [mainly in powder form] produce a  heavy metal build-up in the soil which gets into the vegetables and fruit and intern into our diet needless to say into our low-lying water aquifers.

Additional fluoride was added to the water supply with some research showing negative rather than positive facts.

For these reasons we need to detoxify our systems, Ormus has natural sulphur that rids free radicals and assists in the process.

Chemical fertilisers also increase the acidity in the soil, demanding lime or dolomite lime to adjust and sweeten the soil to an optimum 6.6   –  7.5 PH where within this range nutrients are optimally available to the plant.

Ormus and Organic gardening tips

GMO seeds are the majority of the stock that you find on the shelves today.

I recommend you source heirloom varieties that are non-GMO, the fruit and veggies are proven to be more nutritious and tasty.

It’s no wonder people are looking at taking organic trace mineral elixirs like Ormus and Monatomic Gold to supplement the lack of minerals in their diet.

With heirloom seeds, you can keep the seeds and grow them for the next year. Make sure you choose the seeds only from the largest most healthy plants to improve your stock for next year. Also growing your own seeds your feedstock is familiar with your environment, and by choosing the earliest fruiting and largest plants you will improve your seed stock.

GMO seeds however will not do that well the following year.

I don’t suggest saving them for worthy seed stock.

With heirlooms I suggest you dry them out and put them in the freezer and can be stored this way for longer than a year if needed.

Note: if drying seeds once you think there dry, put them in an airtight plastic bag for 2 days, then they will sweat up as the moisture from the centre will come out, Then air out for another day. To FULLY DRY, 

This way your seeds won’t go mouldy from hidden moisture when stored for a long time especially if your life depends on it.

Make sure you keep seeds in a tin or glass jar so rats or mice don’t sniff out their delicacy.

Food shortages Coming

There have been many claims that food shortages around the world from record 500-1000 year droughts. Food shortages will be coming next season, in countries like the USA, China, Europe,

Pakistan and NSW in Australia have had record floods. Grain issues in Ukraine, fertiliser plants being cut by 70% in Europe, to date up to approx 100 food factories being set on fire many suspicious in the USA.

Farmers in Europe are claiming they just are not growing because of the costly gas supply for cooled storage and limited gas from Russia.

Farmers in the USA are claiming cattle is down up to 40% because of the drought and Farmers are not growing as it’s not viable with diesel prices up approx 100% and fertiliser costs up 300% and seeds also since a year ago.

The Mississippi in the states is drying up limiting access for the barges of grain carrying hundreds of tons and grain stockpiled going to waste.

In the Netherlands, the WEF confiscated 3500 farms under the carbon emissions plan and slaughtered the beef.

In New Zealand 1500 farms.

On top of this, we have the risks of world war only escalating daily in the press and potential logistic problems.

Be wise and prepared. My advice is to get stocks of seeds and organic fertiliser and compost piles started.

Freeze flour and grains for 7 days to kill insect eggs, store them in mylar food bags with oxygen absorbers, and stock up on food.

Food this way can be stored for long periods.

Dehydrate fruits and veggies and stock the shelves and freezer. I assure you you will only save money if you do.

Supply and demand will be an issue with prices rising faster next year, following many of the poorer countries already facing steeper inflation than the USA Uk Europe.

Get the PH LEVEL RIGHT

Test the soil by a PH tester at approx $20  or litmus paper method, Get the soil to 6.6-7.5 PH.

7  being neutral. This is where the nutrients can be absorbed more efficiently.

If a high PH add Dolomite lime a handful a square yard and dig over and if it’s acidic add sulphur handful a square yard,  and leave it for 3 weeks to adjust. Then test again until it is correct.

Don’t add fertiliser at the same time a common mistake to use the 3-week rule.

Pepping the soil productively and methods of water, fertiliser preservation

My method is using a hole system instead of digging the entire garden over. I dig holes approx 24 inches deep with verticle walls and flat bottom stomped flat approx 1 yard in diameter. Take all the dirt out of the hole approx x1 yard apart so you can walk around the plants.

Then I place approx 5-10 kg of manure in the hole.2 handfuls of blood and bone. Then bring all the soil back into the hole by powdering it first and mixing it in with the fertiliser, leave the soil level down approx 3 inches from the ground level this will make all the water collect and run downhill when watering is done or rain comes, making the powder saturation level higher and less waste of water throughout its lifetime as it gets trapped in the hard wall and bottom hole.  Imagine how much more water this plant will get over its lifetime if it’s a dip instead of a mound with water runoff. With the vertical walls and hard bottom, the water will be retained in this hole for root penetration.

The powdered soil is much easier for the plant’s roots to grow down and outwards without wasting energy on growing around stones wood or unbroken lumps of soil. I prefer to load organic compost on the top as its assists in the job of holding the moisture in and producing worm activity. You can add fish or seaweed to your compost during the year as you process it.

Do not stand on this soil once powdered aeration is key.

The worms are our little helpers they leave fertile worm castings and keep the soil aerated.

The microorganism activity will be created from the humus/compost or natural organic manures breaking down which makes the soil very fertile.

Once you have prepared the soil and incorporated the organic manure leave it for 3 weeks for the fertiliser to break down and this will prevent burning the seedling. This 3-week break before planting is essential as over this time the soil will adjust, microorganism activity will increase, the soil structure will improve, worms will come, and the nutrients will be present in an available form. At 3 weeks this soil is supercharged.

I liquid fertilise my holes with Sphinx Ormus at a small concentration of 1 teaspoon per 10 litres however other claims have been made that 1 teaspoon per 4 litres. One bottle makes about 400 litres of Ormus mix. I find that 1 teaspoon per 10 litres works impressively. I just water with Ormus every two weeks.

Sphinx Ormus has nitrogen as it’s from the Pacific Ocean sea Nitrogen creates new shoots stems and leaves,

Potassium for flowering, buds and fruit and resisting disease, also creates a woody solid stem and assists in resisting disease with darker leaves,

Phosphorous for root and seed production.

Because Ormus is in a monatomic form Ormus or Monatomic Gold it is very bioavailable to the plant meaning permeable to the cells.

It also has boron in small amounts which is amazing for heads or fruits. There are many other trace minerals in Ormus Gold that plants love and crops are generally earlier and larger in size and it completely organic.

To make these holes as productive as possible I place a plant in the middle that will grow taller and a companion plant, eg Tomato in the middle and 6 or so lettuce or onions around the outside, as lettuce or onions grow low and require less light.

With this method, the light will get into all plants. With this method, you will find you grow much larger vegetables and with more of them, your harvest will increase and be much more productive and early when vegetable prices in the shops are high.

Always plan your garden so the tall plants are at the back or where they won’t block light or other plants from the sun.

I usually spread salt in between the holes and it brings it back to bare dirt killing weeds with just lovely lush green holes spread out everywhere.

Below is an example of a garden that is comprised of the hole method as explained above, most have 6 onions{verticals]  leeks or spring onions around the Tomatoes or 6 strawberries around the tomatoes.

Although very hard to see verticles in the image.

The garden is in its early stages of growth there are 28 holes but I couldn’t fit them in the photo. With verticals in every hole, the quantity adds up. Just plant one tall species of each plant in each hole as it will get huge once fully grown with this method.

You will save on fertiliser with this method as it’s defined to specifically one hole and fertiliser is going to be getting in short supply and costly.

In this garden, I have 8 tomatoes, 25 strawberries, spinach, silverbeet, 1, yellow courgette / 1, green courgette, 3 pumpkins, 6 capsicums and 2 breadfruits, I watermelon, 1 rock melon, two holes with 5 lettuces in each hole.

With the hole method and verticles plants around the perimeter, I find it more productive as the plants get bigger as the fertiliser and water are concentrated and the holes walls and hard floor hold in water and nutrients it can’t leech out.

Insects and sprays 

My method for insects is to use Pyrethrum and Neem oil it’s organic and I spray it every 3 days. Try to get under the leaves where the eggs are laid.

With my broccoli and cauliflower, I like to plant them in a shade house which is black or green netting on the walls and a white or frost cloth on the roof. I just use fishing nylon to weave the pieces together and steaks drove into the ground around the perimeter. This can be done very cheaply. This netting is very small holes so minimal insects get through, I do this mainly for the white butterfly and the aphid as they target to destroy the cauliflower and broccoli.

I still spray every 3 days and it’s easier to control the shade house environment. My vegetables come out immaculate with no chewed insect leaves and immaculate heads with no losses. Insects tend to attack weak vegetables but with Ormus Gold, you will only grow big strong fruit and heads.

I have used organic sprays such as chilli and garlic but have found them not to be as successful.

Rhubarb spray 

Boil up some rhubarb leaves in water and strain it, then mix a drop of canola oil with it to make it stick to the plant when spraying, then add garlic and chilli juice to it so the sprayer doesn’t block and spray it onto your plants. This spray works well.

Just remember that rhubarb leaves are poisonous, animals won’t eat it in the paddocks and to wash your pots out thoroughly and rinse your vegetables well when harvesting and allow a 2-week withholding period from eating after spray

I prefer pyrethrum but it’s expensive, got to be less toxic than some of the insecticides on the market today.

Planting 

Plant half an anchovy under each seedling approx 3 inches deeper this will give a boost of nitrogen over 6 weeks while it breaks down.

Make sure to make a well around your seedlings so the water runs to the plant instead of away.

Sphinx Ormus used On Organic Broccoli sitting on a 15 Litre water bottle

The Frost cloth on top still lets light in, Light is very important.

Above is a cheap shade house I built for around $60 but to keep the insects under control, I use to cut plastic bottles 10-litre water bottles to reduce watering from condensation after watering with Ormus and they keep insects and slugs off while in the seedling stage and boost during cold months to get a head start on the cycle as in a double system house very warm.

Inside the shade House

You generally find with organic growing that you have to also be careful when cleaning and washing your pyrethrum off after a 10-day withholding period to be safe.

You need to keep an eye out for slugs or earwigs that are tucked away where the eye can’t see. I soak them in hot water and salt they usually come out and cut the florets of broccoli and cauliflower off to uncover any hidden creatures. Interestingly enough at the supermarket in the inorganic section, you never seem to find any insects in your veggies.

The toxins that they put in the veggies kill anything that comes into contact with it,

Which says a lot about the number of toxins that are building up in your body,

Taking Ormus as a supplement is a powerful detox with sulphur assisting this and also a mineral booster,

Read about the list of minerals for humans and their benefits. Ormus Monatomic Gold Assay Minerals benefits.

You can buy ladybirds in bulk numbers and release them into your shade house /greenhouse and garden the predators that they are can eat literally hundreds of insects and aphids a day. Powerful little creatures.

Slug pellets are a must when planting seedlings out or you can use Sandor ash as slugs don’t like sand.

Verticles

These are very productive, I grow them together as they don’t take up room. Leaks, spring onions, and onions. They are all verticles and they can be crammed in together or good to put on the outside the perimeter of your holes as they don’t block light.

If you have a small raised garden bed Verticles are best as you will get a huge number of plants in them.

Staking 

Growing with Ormus Gold the fruit being tomatoes, capsicum etc need to be staked as the fruit gets so big they will weigh down the plant and fall over so I just use bamboo steaks.

Tips

• If you are serious start a worm farm that will boost production.
• Don’t put your diseased or insect-damaged plants in the compost or they will spread around your garden.
• Plant courgette or pumpkin away from the main crop as these are prone to powdery mildew and it will spread if your garden is close
• Pull weeds or use salt to kill weeds if using salt keep it away from the plants and don’t plant in that place for a season.
•  Water the soil, not the plant’s leaves to reduce disease. Feed the soil at the beginning of prep not so much the plant. Compost and liquid Ormus are a must.
• Don’t use tantalised timber for your raised planters Copper chrome and arsenic are not good for your veggies.
• Organic Sprays that work: But be consistent, Pyrethrum, Neem oil, and Bacillus thurengensis for white butterflies or caterpillars. Introduce ladybirds to kill many insects like aphids. Shade houses or glass houses are good as insects can be controlled in smaller spaces more efficiently.
• If you use an insect-proof or limiter shade house make sure you plant things that don’t need pollination as bees won’t get in there, Best to plant lettuce, broccoli, cauliflower, spring onions, spinach etc as they don’t need pollinating and insect damage will be minimum.
• * Target full sun, shelter from the prevailing wind in your area, and if possible use rainwater as this is enlivened structured water and will grow faster plants.                     Triskelions Magnetic Vortexing Water for Ormus

NOTE: SPHINX ORMUS comes with colloidal Gold so if you plan to purchase for plants specifically let me know by email and I will not put colloidal gold in the Ormus as colloidal gold is not beneficial to plants only humans.

Our Ormus Gold is supercharged with energy from different methods

Supercharge ORMUS Monatomic Gold

Ormus Alkaline / Acidic Diet

White Gold Powder

Supercharged Monatomic Gold
Made with Pacific Ocean Sea Water

    TO PURCHASE CLICK HERE

Please note:

If you wish to purchase solely for plants please email me and I will leave the colloidal gold out as this is not beneficial to plants.